Cited from Sheree's feature in American Salon.com
Sheree Knobel knows a thing or two about bright blondes. The colorist has spent the last 25 years mastering her craft in Sydney, Australia, and figuring out the secret to a bold money piece. During this year's Redken Virtual Symposium, Knobel shared three of her top tips for nailing the money piece: placement, the tipout and zone toning.
1. Placement and Technique
- Section the hair into four triangular zones along the hairline. This will ensure that the money piece blends smoothly into the rest of the hair.
- Work with a center part if possible. If your client wears a side part, make the triangles smaller on the side that has less hair to balance it out.
- Make sure that the whole hairline is covered with your triangular sections. The triangular sections should all be connected along the hairline.
- Section out the whole head before coloring to ensure that the sections are balanced and even.
- When it's time to start foiling, take a small section right along the hairline that goes with your client's growth pattern. Take a really fine micro stitch and begin applying lightener all the way up to the scalp. Zone 1: Flash Lift Bonder Inside + 10-volume Pro-Oxide Ratio 1:2
- Following along that line in a diagonal back section, take a slice instead of a micro stitch. This will ensure color saturation throughout the ends.
- Repeat the same steps for each triangular zone around the head.
2. The Tipout
- Knobel prefers to tipout as she works. Instead of pinching the hair and teasing, she likes to use the teeth of her comb to spread the hair out, make sure it's a wide enough section and then do a light weave.
- Zone 2: Flash Lift Bonder Inside + 30-volume Pro-Oxide Ratio 1:2
3. The Root Shadow + Zone Toning
- Tone with different formulas to enhance the placement:
- Zone 1: (20h) 08N+ (10g) 07NB + PROCESSING SOLUTION
- ZONE 1 HAIRLINE: (5g) 09N + (5g) 09NB + PROCESSING SOLUTION
- ZONE 2 + 3: 010GI + PROCESSING SOLUTION
Original Article can be found via: https://www.americansalon.com/education/a-blonding-expert-shares-3-tips-for-a-bold-money-piece